Faro Finisterre was on top of our list when we left the albergue in Finisterre. People once believed this to be the end of the known world so I was so ready to be there! With no rucksacks on our backs and flip flops on our feet, the ocean right in front of us, I felt more like a holiday maker than a pilgrim, but I did welcome the feeling. We asked a few locals of the way to the lighthouse and quickly found the way out of Finisterre. As a matter of fact, I anticipated a short walk, but in reality it was almost 4 kilometres in only one direction, my rubber sandals were not the best choice, I have to admit that and so do my heels.
After lunch at Cee, at the moment where laziness had reached its highest peak for the day, we started to climb up intensely. Camino Finisterre was tough on us, but, hey, no pain, no gain – the efforts made it up for the golden kilometres that followed…:)
The last stage of our Camino – from Olveiroa to Finisterre is for me the most picturesque and inspiring part of the whole Camino. This statement, of course, is largely subjective, as I am deeply fond of the sea/ocean in every season and weather. Though, I am sure no one can remain untouched by nature’s beauty if he/she walks this particular part. It gives immense sense of freedom and I am greatly thankful that we chose to finish our Camino by walking all the way to Finisterre. The decision came quite naturally at the time, and, as it seemed, for a good reason.
To begin with, this was a looong day. 33 kilometres to Olveiroa. I do not think I had been as exhausted as I was that day when I was crawling towards the albergue.
The night was peaceful and the day started very quietly, something you can enjoy only in albergue rooms as slightly inhabited as ours. With only 8-9 people available and fresh air coming through the window all night, it was quite a refreshing experience. We had coffee con leches with some sort of croissants. I am not usually particularly hungry at that time of the day, but these sections of the Camino (from Santiago to Finisterre) are not only less crowded in terms of pilgrims, but the distances between villages can be substantial, especially if you are used to the French way, offering so many possibilities. So fewer villages, and, what’s more, many of them did not provide eating possibilities, supermercados, or anything like that. So, it’s a very very good idea that there is something nutritious in your backpack when walking the Camino Finisterre.
Continued from Part 1
There was some walking along the road (not my piece of cake for sure) but this time there was a sidewalk (on both sides!), so I didn’t mind. I was looking forward to the rapid climb I noticed on the map. It was so good not knowing what to expect the previous days. The pleasure of ignorance. Now, however, I was perfectly aware that it was 2 km at least and the thought was not really comforting.
We saw the guy on the horse again. He is taking it slowly, isn’t he? I would expect him to be twice as quick as we were, but instead he was moving roughly at our pace. The horse was not thrilled with the climb, either, I am almost sure of that.
After the hectic walk to Santiago the other day, setting off to Finisterre felt like a breath of fresh air and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
The morning started in a perfectly relaxed mode, we pampered ourselves by sleeping until 8 o’clock and still were among the few people that left the albergue so early. To make things even better we decided to have a breakfast…about 5 meters after we walked out of the door. This is what I call a promising start of the day. We ordered hot chocolate and churros (this is like the ultimate combination, churro being a fried-dough crunchy pastry) and the energy levels hit the roof of the bar we were in, which in turn looked so authentic, I would not be surprised if it looked exactly the same way a few centuries ago.
Continued from Part 1.
We reached Santiago around noon and I was surprised how big the town actually was. We walked for a few kilometres before we reached the Cathedral, too late to see the the Botafumeiro though. The square in front of the cathedral was full with people – taking photos, laughing, sitting/lying on the ground, thinking, speaking, greeting, hugging. The cathedral itself was splendid in its style, details and size. Santiago was bursting with life – pilgrims, students (there is a university), tourists, locals. Very lively atmosphere, with gorgeous architecture and cozy, narrow streets. Lots of bars, restaurants, all sorts of places where you can sit and enjoy life. I was desperate to leave my rucksack somewhere, anywhere, change my clothes and soak in the sun. So much impatience! Probably that is why I had to wait a few more hours, lesson taught, whether learnt – still to be determined.
There it is – the day we were to reach Santiago de Compostela. Ahead of us were only about 22 km. – well deserved small walk after the last couple of days delivering more than 30 km. daily to our feet – interesting how people’s attitude to distance changes . Was I excited that I would finally reach it? Yes, but perhaps not to the extend some people do, simply because for me the end was Finisterre and watching the sun go down over the ocean. Nonetheless, I was really thrilled, curious and impatient to see the place which has been the destination point of pilgrimage for centuries.
So off we went…
Day 9 was one of those days which have not left a very memorable trace in my mind. But there should be days like that, just getting in the routine of walking, which isn’t bad at all. It was a flat, long walk (over 30 km…again) with grumpy weather but considering we had to reach Santiago de Compostela the next day (already?!), we preferred to walk more that day and treat ourselves with a pleasurable short walk for the last day.
Here comes another thirty-something stage. To be precise, 32 km. A little disturbing thought, as I’ve noticed that around the 30th km my walking enthusiasm starts to rapidly evaporate in the hot Spanish sun.
We left early (what a surprise) the tiny tiny village of Gonzar and we were on the road again. The good thing about not starting from the major stage ending points (like Portomarin the other day) is that you can actually walk and enjoy the process without the contest feeling I sometimes got on busier parts of the Camino. Don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy competition spirit every now and then, I even normally get motivated by it, but for me it is not compatible with the Camino. Challenging myself – definitely YES but that’s another story.