To begin with, this was a looong day. 33 kilometres to Olveiroa. I do not think I had been as exhausted as I was that day when I was crawling towards the albergue.
The night was peaceful and the day started very quietly, something you can enjoy only in albergue rooms as slightly inhabited as ours. With only 8-9 people available and fresh air coming through the window all night, it was quite a refreshing experience. We had coffee con leches with some sort of croissants. I am not usually particularly hungry at that time of the day, but these sections of the Camino (from Santiago to Finisterre) are not only less crowded in terms of pilgrims, but the distances between villages can be substantial, especially if you are used to the French way, offering so many possibilities. So fewer villages, and, what’s more, many of them did not provide eating possibilities, supermercados, or anything like that. So, it’s a very very good idea that there is something nutritious in your backpack when walking the Camino Finisterre.
The walk towards Olveiroa started with a gradual ascent for about 10 kilometres, followed by a descent and then another 10 kilometres of predominantly flat walking. We were passing through lush forests with eucalyptus trees among others, the air was heavily aromatic and humid. This scenery was in rapid contrast with some of the sections with dry flat fields on the days before Santiago de Compostela. Here and there you could see maize fields. Very pleasant.
There was also, sadly, some walking along the road as well. At some of the parts we had to actually walk on the road, with cars passing by us at quite high speed. Such sections of the Camino really made me nervous. On one of these sections we saw a couple running, with their packs on. Needless to say, they looked perfectly fit. We were dragging behind
It was so hot that day! We were carrying our own food (so smart), found a recreation spot and took our time to eat all the cheese we were carrying, before (if not already) it got sour. My feet had already started to hurt, and this feeling usually intensifies after a period of rest at noon. When we finished lunch I was already so not in the mood for any more walking. But we continued…
At about the 20-23rd km of the walk a climb up began which I loathed so much. I am still not sure about the cheese we ate that day, but there was no doubt I was completely sour. After the climb, logically came the drop, which was as rapid as the climb. My feet were so unhappy. This was the second time I was having some really tough time (the first time being in the vineyards before Villafranca del Bierzo). I was hot, my feet were craving terribly for some rest, I completely lacked enthusiasm and willingness to go on. So I just sat down I tried to dig out some motivation being fully aware there were about 10 km more. It took some time…
Finally, after some more walking side by side with huge amounts of corn, we reached the Olveiroa. The last part was walked along the road and at a speed close to 0. There were no other pilgrims visible now.
Reaching albergue Horreo was such a joyful moment. “Horreo” in fact stands for a very popular thing in Galicia, and is a granary, generally made from stone/wood and separated from the ground by stone pillars. This is done with the purpose of not letting rodents get close to the corn, or whatever precious is stored inside.
I was content with the albergue, even though I think I would have been content with anything having a bed and a bathroom. There were some separators between beds at places so the feeling of being placed in a stable was obscured to an extent.
Olveiroa was a village with nothing to see, there was a sign saying there should be a shop, we did not find it, though. And I am pretty convinced we roamed about the whole village, which was tiny – took us about 5 minutes. Not a big deal, the albergue (combined with a pension) had a restaurant, a small part of it functioning as a shop, so I had all I could possibly need.