The last stage of our Camino – from Olveiroa to Finisterre is for me the most picturesque and inspiring part of the whole Camino. This statement, of course, is largely subjective, as I am deeply fond of the sea/ocean in every season and weather. Though, I am sure no one can remain untouched by nature’s beauty if he/she walks this particular part. It gives immense sense of freedom and I am greatly thankful that we chose to finish our Camino by walking all the way to Finisterre. The decision came quite naturally at the time, and, as it seemed, for a good reason.
As every morning, we woke up very early and prepared rather quickly to leave. I am convinced I shortened the time needed to get me and my stuff together every morning. The improvement was noticeable (at least I thought so). That morning I was moving with the speed of light (with almost no light in the room) to get ready as I could barely wait any longer to see Finisterre. We knew that the first part of the walk was mountainous, predominantly flat and about 18 km. and I was so ready to go!
In no time we were walking out of Olveiroa and into the mountain. It was completely dark outside for at least on hour and I suspect we missed some great views by walking them in darkness, the limited light from our flashes only pointing in front of us, but 32 km of walking to Finisterre were waiting for us so we had to get going.
I have to say this first part of walking from Olveiroa to Finisterre was walked at an excellent pace. You see, I could feel waves of anticipation running through me, transforming into impatience as the hours went by. Mind that at Hospital we saw the first and only concrete milestone pointing in 2 directions – on the left to Finisterre, and on the right – to Muxia. We turned left.
The first 6 km. are a gradual ascent but then the terrain was predominantly flat for about 10 km. This part of Camino Finisterre is very deserted. Mind that at some point we saw a sign, warning us that there would be nowhere in the next 15 km to have anything to eat or drink. We actually saw one person in the middle of nowhere, with his extremely old dog, preparing a table several options but this happened towards the end of these 15 km. So my advise is definitely take something with you as there are even no villages you are passing through.
Anyway, I quite enjoyed this emptiness. It was refreshing, relaxing and walking felt like the best thing I could possibly do at that moment. I was thinking of all the days that were left behind, the places we’d walked through, the people we’d met, the experience. A strange mixture of anticipation and sorrow that the ending point of our Camino was coming closer and closer. People were extremely few. It was a pure Camino experience.
Finally, we saw the ocean, bathing in sunshine and its own beauty. I was so happy! We finally stopped walking to take some proper photos. Soon afterwards a very rapid descent started all the way to the town of Cee which we could see down. It was very hard for me to concentrate on what my feet were doing as the view was breathtaking. However, I forced myself to, as the slope was not a joke at all, was covered with stones, so I directed my attention and efforts to reaching Cee safely.
Cee is a lovely coastal village located in a cove, and as such it was very different from the villages we’d walked through so far. We stopped for a lunch as we had not had a proper break since we set off in the morning and after asking a few locals for the direction, continued on to Finisterre. We had only a small section of about 12 km left. And what a section…
We continue here!